Soil Improvements

• Composted manure, coconut fiber, leaves, straw, compost  (ideally make some yourself) and other organic matter will improve any soil whether clay or sandy. It is best to add some every year preferably in the fall. Usually these items can be placed directly on top of the soil and worked in by earthworms over the winter. If the layer is thick enough (3 or more inches) most weeds and weed seeds will be smothered. A layer of black and white newspaper or plain cardboard can be placed under the above amendments to further reduce weed growth. In the spring just dig a hole and plant.
• Avoid frequent tilling. Tilling can damage soil structure and bring weed seeds to the surface. Tilling can also chop some perennial weeds roots into pieces. In some cases each root piece will grow a new plant and compound your weed problems. You should only need to till every few years – if ever.

• Water before 10 a.m. to avoid evaporation of water before it reaches the soil.
• Early morning watering is preferable to evening. Evening watering can contribute to disease problems.
• Water 1-2” per week (or less depending on the needs of your plants) – measure sprinkler output by placing tuna cans in various places around the yard and measuring the amount of water during one cycle of the sprinklers. Multiply amount in can by number of cycles per watering day. For example: ¼” x 2 = ½”. Increase sprinkler time per cycle and/or number of cycles if necessary. Multiple cycles usually provide better watering by preventing runoff.
• Water no more than 3 times per week. Two is preferable. If you have a sprinkler system you may need to let it cycle two or three times each watering day. For sandy soils 3 times per week may be necessary.
• Avoid watering if there has been at least 1” of rain on or close to the normal watering day.
• If possible avoid watering on windy days
• Even if the top of the soil appears dry it may be damp enough underneath. Put your finger in the soil up to the first knuckle to accurately check soil moisture.
• Periodically check sprinklers for clogging and to make sure no plants are blocking the sprinklers.

Weed Control

• See ideas above under Soil Improvements
• Pre emergent (prevents germination of seeds): Corn gluten meal sold under various brand names. From corn syrup processing, this product has been shown to prevent seed germination. It is safe and will also fertilize your garden. For best control use in fall and in spring. Avoid using on newly seeded garden areas or just before seeding. It may be necessary to wait 6 weeks before planting seeds.
• The best way to remove most remaining weeds is by digging and pulling.
• Chemical weed killers and fertilizers can damage soil structure and kill earthworms and soil organisms. This contributes to problems due to poor soil health.
• Organic weed killers are available but are best used in fall or early spring to avoid killing desirable plants. They kill on contact so will only damage what is visible.
• Do not let weeds go to seed.
• Plant in squares or raised beds to make weed control easier. This also helps the condition of your soil as long as you avoid walking on the planting areas. DO NOT use pressure treated wood or railroad ties for raised beds – no matter what you are told by places that sell these items they contain dangerous chemicals (including arsenic). Just ask what they are treated with. For pressure treated wood: by law they are to give you a list of what the wood contains and protection required when working with it and disposing of it.  For more information see Square Foot Gardening.
• Mulch between garden beds to control weed growth. Straw and/or leaves work well for this purpose and will also decompose and help improve the soil.

Pest Control

• The first step is to identify what is on your plants. Sometimes the creature we see is not causing a problem. If you know what it is you will know whether it should be controlled, whether it is beneficial or whether other insects are controlling it already. Most insects are not harmful to people or plants.
• Attracting birds and bats to your yard can help with pest control.  Plants, feeders, houses, and water features can help them hang around.
• If you have used the other suggestions on this page you should have few pest problems because you will have healthy soil, which contributes to healthy plants.
• Some pests such as aphids can sometimes be controlled by a strong blast from the hose. Once they are knocked off they can’t get back on.
• For slugs and snails: Iron phosphate bait sold under various brand names. Not harmful to people or pets (unless your pet is a slug or snail). Any not consumed by slugs or snails will provide fertilizer to your garden. Hair (pet or human) and/or crushed eggs shells around specific plants may protect them from slug damage.
• For most insect pests: Insecticidal soap. Harms all insects so avoid using when bees are pollinating. Can be used up to harvest time.
• B.T. : A disease that only affects certain insects. There are different strains depending on what you need to control-- there is one for caterpillars, another for Colorado Potato Beetles, etc.
• Horticultural oil: Oil that smothers insects and their eggs. Cannot be used when temperatures are above 90F. Avoid using when bees and other desirable insects are out. Be sure to spray the entire plant - trunk, branches, top and bottom of leaves.
• Diatomaceous Earth will kill insects and spiders. It is fossilized sea life and is very sharp to them so they cannot adapt to it.  I have used it on in ground yellow jacket nests when the client had used chemical sprays that did nothing.  It will not work if it gets wet so don't use where sprinklers will be operating soon or if it is raining.
• To help repel dogs and cats and some other mammals, the areas can be treated with hot pepper. Sprays containing hot pepper can be purchased (be sure they are safe for edible plants) or dried hot pepper can be sprinkled in the areas you want to discourage them from entering. Orange peel may also repel cats. These items will need to be reapplied every few weeks.  There are also repellents for deer which may or may not work depending on how hungry they are.
• Spinosad is fairly new to the market.  It is a great alternative to chemical sprays especially those for fruit trees.  It controls a variety of pests.
• Neem oil is also fairly new to the market. It can be used to control a variety of pests including root weevils that are not well controlled by other pesticides.

Fertilizing

• Corn gluten meal if there are any weed problems
• Use organic fertilizers to improve garden and soil health without harming soil organisms. If organic matter is added every year additional fertilizers may not be necessary. I would still recommend spraying with kelp/fish emulsion for added benefits
• Kelp and fish emulsion sprayed on the garden every three to four weeks during the growing season provides macro and micro nutrients and helps the garden to be drought, frost and pest resistant.

Other

• Gardens on which chemicals fertilizers and pesticides have been used may require some recovery time before looking their best